Linen Belle Epoque | Lithuanian festive linen dresses

2026-07-21

Evening linen dress was hard to imagine at the beginning of the 20th century.

Although linen dresses for outdoor leisure gradually became acceptable, wearing them in the evening, for special occasions, or in formal settings was considered inappropriate.

For example, in Victorian and Edwardian England, the rules approved by the Lord Chamberlain’s Office clearly stated which fabrics were appropriate to wear at royal events—and linen, of course, was not among them.

These rules were not surprising, as historically fabrics were essentially divided into two main categories: those of plant origin — cotton, linen, and similar fabrics — were considered suitable for everyday, household clothing, while materials of animal origin — silk, wool, leather, furs — were associated with representative, formal attire.

However, at the beginning of the 20th century, the situation began to change. A new generation of wealthy people could afford to ignore established traditions, social norms were rapidly liberalizing, and innovative fashion designers were looking for new shapes and materials, and in this context, linen gradually began to penetrate into Western life.

One of the most important centers of this change was Callot Soeurs, a fashion house founded by four sisters in Paris, famous for its delicate embroidery, lace, and unexpected combinations of luxurious and more modest fabrics.

Giovanni Boldini, one of the most famous portraitists of the Belle Époque, known for his expressive brushwork, often painted famous women of the era wearing Callot Soeurs dresses.

Favored by the upper class, Callot Soeurs was an extremely influential fashion house that was able not only to present exceptional fashion, but also to find itself in the center of cultural attention thanks to clever marketing and a carefully cultivated clientele.

For example, on the first flight from Paris to New York in September 1930, a Callot Soeurs dress was among just a few items on board.

The status of this brand is presented even more vividly by Marcel Proust in the second volume of his novel In Search of Lost Time. In it, the protagonist asks his friend what is so special about the clothes of “Callot Soeurs”. After mentioning the huge price difference — almost seven times the price of similar dresses — she finally sums up: “there can be no comparison; they look the same only to people who know nothing about it.”

The Callot Soeurs were famous for their use of unconventional fabrics, and one of their favorites was linen lace.

However, Callot Soeurs did not use new, but vintage — 17th or 18th century — linen lace.

Perhaps it is no coincidence that the exquisite linen lace they loved so much was created in the Picardy region, especially in and around the city of Laon — a region that developed not only the exquisite traditions of linen lace, but also a Gothic architectural style characterized by a similar fragility and structural lightness.

In this region, in the darkness and damp cellars — to preserve the elasticity of the fine linen — some of the most prized linen lace in Europe was woven and embroidered.

Callot Soeurs noticed that compared to these vintage laces, sometimes more than a century old, the new machine-made linen fabrics lacked the subtle nuances of hand-made work, softness and drape. One reason was the change in the linen material itself over time: the higher pectin content (around 5%) in new linen fabric would eventually — after many years of washing and use — decrease (to 1%), making the fabric softer, more flexible and drape more elegantly.

Using this vintage linen lace, Callot Soeurs designers created dresses suitable for the most exclusive occasions, in which linen and traditionally luxurious fabrics are on equal footing.

Thanks to its high reputation and extremely wide clientele, Callot Soeurs could afford to use fabrics such as linen, which were considered provocative at the time, in their evening gowns. With these experiments, the fashion house contributed to a wider change - paving the way for many other designers to start using linen for sewing elegant, formal clothes.

In this newsletter, we have selected three gorgeous linen dresses and suits suitable for a more festive environment.

All linen combinations by Lithuanian designers

Raw edges

This dress, made of 100% softened linen, captivates in several ways.

From further away, we first notice the refreshing yellow color.

A closer look reveals subtle design details — raw edge accents at the neckline, sleeve edges, front and bottom, as well as insets at the bottom of the skirt.

And when you put it on, you’ll discover even more: hidden pockets and the comfort of a carefully designed, body-hugging shape. The silhouette is adjustable with straps, so the dress adapts to the body easily and naturally.

DOKE long yellow linen dress Malta-ss

Lace pattern

This costume, consisting of a blouse and skirt (which can be purchased together or separately), uses similar ideas that once made the Callot Soeurs mentioned in the introduction famous.

Made from soft, 100% linen woven in Italy, the flowing skirt and blouse are decorated with handmade lace.

The delicate geometry of the lace flowing over the soft surface creates an impression of sublime lightness — the fabric not only moves elegantly, but is also pleasant to the touch.

White linen dressy suit Ramatuelle

Domesticated flamingo

This straight-cut dress, thanks to the adjustable side ties, easily adapts to the figure and becomes more glamorous.

The flamingo-colored dress is made of structured, medium-thick 100% linen fabric, making it comfortable to wear not only on the hottest summer days.

The fabric is certified organic, pre-washed and additionally stone-washed, providing even more softness.

P.S. The soft flamingo shade looks a bit muted and subtle in real life, especially indoors.

Pink linen dress MIAMI IN FLAMINGO

Finally...

This week we remembered that next month we will celebrate the 13th birthday of Baltas Miškas!

Over the years, we have had the pleasure of serving many of you in various locations — from Užupis to the Marriott Hotel, and finally today — in a boutique located on quiet Raugyklos Street.

We got to know even more of you virtually: on our website, social media, and newsletters. This virtual content also reflects, at least in part, the Portuguese, Turkish, Austrian, and other imprints left by the countries we have lived in over the years.

It’s easy to forget these dates in the hustle and bustle of everyday life, but we believe they are important. It’s a chance to reflect on the past year, think about what you want the next 13 years to be like, and share the festive spirit (and some nice surprises) with you.

See you next Friday!

What remained unmentioned

When introducing each newsletter topic and preserving your attention, we try not to expand too much, so there are always details left unsaid. In this section, intended for those interested in more detail, we will share additional links that we believe will enrich the topic.

The founders of the Callot Soeurs design house were extremely private individuals and rarely spoke to the media. An informative overview of their activities is provided here. Link

The Callot Soeurs collections were characterized by innovation that broke the stereotypes of the era. It is worth exploring the archives.